I'm really torn on this one. I never really made the different color/readmore connection, so up till now it hasn't been enhanching my experience (beyond making the Monastery more mysterious). So I think I would like to see something more obvious. Maybe you could show the open and closing tag in a shade of gray so that the "readmore" word itself is visible (much like the HTML warnings for missing tags in preview). I agree that the default should be to have some form of readmore indicator turned on.