I really think it depends on how the IDE operates and how you use it. I like color syntax highlighting, and auto-indenting, but other things, like auto-completion are an annoyance, and I ignore them.

I think you can learn to code using an IDE, and for large projects, IDE's can be good because they sometimes include an RCS and/or a project management system, so they can be handy tools, but a lot of times I just drop into a text editor and work there rather than bother with the IDE.